Generally, official embroidery charts will clearly indicate the type and number of threads to be used. Often, even finished semi-finished kits—including the chart—will come with the actual embroidery floss included. However, sometimes embroiderers still prefer to choose their own favorite threads. Below, we’ll discuss step by step the various situations where selecting your own embroidery floss is necessary or desirable.

Situation 1: The embroidery floss in the semi-finished product packaging is of poor quality. This issue occurs frequently—for instance, when purchasing embroidery kits from street vendors, you might find not only subpar floss but also incorrect or incomplete color options. In better cases, the pattern sheet will clearly indicate the brand and exact color numbers of the floss needed, allowing you to head straight to the store and buy the right threads yourself. However, this scenario isn’t common; more often, the packaging simply lists the sequence of colors required for stitching. In such instances, your best option is to locate a comprehensive color chart for a well-known brand of embroidery floss—like DMC or Anchor—that includes actual thread samples. Carefully compare the floss with the colors shown on the chart under natural outdoor lighting to ensure an accurate match. Once you’ve identified the closest shade, mark the corresponding color number directly onto the pattern sheet. If you’re unable to find a suitable color chart, the next step is to take the floss directly to a local cross-stitch shop, where they typically stock branded embroidery floss for comparison. Just be aware that some shops may use lighting that distorts the true colors of the threads, so it’s crucial to rely on natural daylight whenever possible for the most reliable results.

Situation 2: You’d like to use a different brand of embroidery thread than the one specified on the chart. Some charts even list color codes for two or more brands of thread. If the chart doesn’t include the thread number you can actually purchase, you should consult a color conversion chart.

Scenario 3: You’ve designed your own embroidery pattern, or perhaps you’d like to tweak the look of an existing one. If you’re highly experienced and prefer working directly without relying on software like PCStitch, you’ll naturally gravitate toward choosing embroidery threads. Besides DMC cotton threads, you can explore a variety of other readily available options—such as metallic threads or hand-dyed silk threads, for instance. Of course, your choice of thread should also align with the final purpose of your project. For example, when embroidering bibs or clothing for babies, it’s best to avoid threads that bleed easily or those with stiff, rigid textures.

Scenario 4: You’re unhappy with the embroidery threads used on the design and want to switch to a different color palette. If the design consists of simple geometric shapes or a straightforward, shadow-free image, feel free to use your favorite colors—it won’t matter. However, if the pattern is complex, you’ll need to pay extra attention and put in a bit more effort. Carefully compare the recommended thread colors on the chart with the new colors you’d like to use, ensuring they match exactly. To do this, place the threads under red glass or transparent colored paper to filter out any unwanted hues and identify the closest match. Alternatively, you can take black-and-white photos of both sets of threads and compare them side by side—PHOTOSHOP software can even help convert color images into grayscale for easier comparison.

P.S. Since we’re discussing “embroidery threads,” we can’t help but mention what exactly constitutes a “Z-shaped” thread wrap and an “S-shaped” thread wrap.

Noeline Mc Caughan's explanation is as follows:

To make the embroidery floss look neat, we can wrap the thread in a "Z"-shaped or "S"-shaped pattern. Hold a strand of floss (consisting of 6 threads) right in front of your eyes. If the threads twist from the upper right to the lower left, we call this strand "Z"-shaped; but if they twist from the upper left toward the lower right, it’s considered an "S"-shaped wrap.